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	<title>Comments on: The Proper Use of Draw Reins</title>
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		<title>By: Erica K. Frei</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-367</link>
		<dc:creator>Erica K. Frei</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 21:53:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-367</guid>
		<description>If he is not taking the contact because of being dull then look into his tracking. More energy and the proper forward will often resolve this. If you&#039;re not familiar with what tracking is or how to achieve it let me know and I can give you some pointers. :)

Cheers!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If he is not taking the contact because of being dull then look into his tracking. More energy and the proper forward will often resolve this. If you&#8217;re not familiar with what tracking is or how to achieve it let me know and I can give you some pointers. :)</p>
<p>Cheers!</p>
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		<title>By: Sammy</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-365</link>
		<dc:creator>Sammy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Jun 2011 23:34:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-365</guid>
		<description>Thanks for your input! I have actually been doing a lot of seat exercises and have been told that I have a really good seat and good balance as well, so i don&#039;t think that that would be too much of the issue... I recently started lunge work with him and that seems to be showing some signs of improvement. 
I will definitely try using a Baucher snaffle with him, although I wouldn&#039;t say he is timid about accepting the bit or sensitive, he seems to just ignore it, he&#039;s unresponsive to it but I will give it a try anyways! 
Thank you for your help
sammy</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for your input! I have actually been doing a lot of seat exercises and have been told that I have a really good seat and good balance as well, so i don&#8217;t think that that would be too much of the issue&#8230; I recently started lunge work with him and that seems to be showing some signs of improvement.<br />
I will definitely try using a Baucher snaffle with him, although I wouldn&#8217;t say he is timid about accepting the bit or sensitive, he seems to just ignore it, he&#8217;s unresponsive to it but I will give it a try anyways!<br />
Thank you for your help<br />
sammy</p>
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		<title>By: Erica K. Frei</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-364</link>
		<dc:creator>Erica K. Frei</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Jun 2011 22:53:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-364</guid>
		<description>Hi Sammy,

    Draw reins are never a solution, just a short cut that misses what is really going on to prevent your horse from accepting the contact. First I would recommend seat exercises to build your balance in the saddle and establish independence in your aids - this will help immensely to quiet your own hands down if he is avoiding contact for that reason. 

   Following seat work I would then say he may be moving forward, but likely not forward enough. Forward does not mean fast, simply means that his tracking is correct at every gait you are working in. Work on the lunge is invaluable for establishing tracking to begin with and then following up with a great ground person to give you feedback when you translate that tracking to under saddle work. 

   Another point I will make is bit - I often hesitate to say anything about bits because it is easy to get caught up in trying this bit and that bit until your head pops off. Any horse I have worked who has the slightest hesitation to make contact on the reins I immediately put in a Baucher snaffle. The reason is because this bit is more stable when it hangs in the horse&#039;s mouth and especially for a horse who is timid in taking pressure or is more sensitive about the bit it can make a world of difference. They are also a very affordable favor you can do your horse.

   Would love to know your progress and if you need help in getting started doing any seat exercises let me know. :)

Cheers!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Sammy,</p>
<p>    Draw reins are never a solution, just a short cut that misses what is really going on to prevent your horse from accepting the contact. First I would recommend seat exercises to build your balance in the saddle and establish independence in your aids &#8211; this will help immensely to quiet your own hands down if he is avoiding contact for that reason. </p>
<p>   Following seat work I would then say he may be moving forward, but likely not forward enough. Forward does not mean fast, simply means that his tracking is correct at every gait you are working in. Work on the lunge is invaluable for establishing tracking to begin with and then following up with a great ground person to give you feedback when you translate that tracking to under saddle work. </p>
<p>   Another point I will make is bit &#8211; I often hesitate to say anything about bits because it is easy to get caught up in trying this bit and that bit until your head pops off. Any horse I have worked who has the slightest hesitation to make contact on the reins I immediately put in a Baucher snaffle. The reason is because this bit is more stable when it hangs in the horse&#8217;s mouth and especially for a horse who is timid in taking pressure or is more sensitive about the bit it can make a world of difference. They are also a very affordable favor you can do your horse.</p>
<p>   Would love to know your progress and if you need help in getting started doing any seat exercises let me know. :)</p>
<p>Cheers!</p>
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		<title>By: Sammy</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-362</link>
		<dc:creator>Sammy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 May 2011 21:40:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-362</guid>
		<description>I am currently working with a 15-yr old canadian cross. I&#039;ve been having a lot of trouble trying to get him round and supple. He is calm and fairly quiet and i have him moving forward consistently but he wont accept the contact. He keeps his head straight and stiff with his nose poked out no matter what I try. I was wondering if i should try draw reins on him?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am currently working with a 15-yr old canadian cross. I&#8217;ve been having a lot of trouble trying to get him round and supple. He is calm and fairly quiet and i have him moving forward consistently but he wont accept the contact. He keeps his head straight and stiff with his nose poked out no matter what I try. I was wondering if i should try draw reins on him?</p>
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		<title>By: Erica K.</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-200</link>
		<dc:creator>Erica K.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:18:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-200</guid>
		<description>Hi Kayla :)

   From what it sounds like, your boy is experiencing being overwhelmed by the energy and chaos of the now vamped up drill team practices. I used to ride in drill team and understand completely the change that can happen instantly with your horse when moving from slow and basic practices to the more finished versions which involve higher speeds and faster responses. There are a couple things which may be at play, but I would suspect it is a combination rather than just one.

	&lt;strong&gt;Increased emontional energy from everyone &lt;/strong&gt;- your horse, you, the other horses and their riders. In order to do maneuvers at a higher speed it requires more energy, more energy creates more tension and that tension will also increase the emotional responses from the horses and riders. If you are practicing to music as well think about the impact that excited and upbeat music has on a person&#039;s mood - it can be hard or impossible to fall asleep or relax to heavy metal or even a good rock band.
	&lt;strong&gt;Your own tension, and attention, has changed. &lt;/strong&gt;Our natural response to speed and energy is to tighten our muscles more, and if you are relying on your muscles in any regard to keep your balance in the saddle your horse is going to feel this. Also, because you are focused so hard on the maneuvers in drill team your attention to other details is taken away.
	&lt;strong&gt;Your hands and seat are not as quiet and steady at the faster speeds that they were at the slower speeds. &lt;/strong&gt;The biggest cause of head tossing and running through are hands which are inconsistent and a seat which is out of balance for whatever reason. The hands can be inconsistent because they are giving and taking too much, bouncing around, opening and closing when unnecessary, and too high or low. Usually any problems with the hands are a result of an imbalance in the seat, and if not only from that they are always magnified by problems in the seat. Particularly with a horse who isn&#039;t &quot;there and done that&quot; yet or one who is very attentive to the rider (hasn&#039;t checked out) these issues can drive them batty to the point of being explosively evasive.
   I would take a look at all of those things. Tie downs and bits are only temporary solutions, same as draw reins. Unfortunately you cannot force relaxation just through positioning the horse&#039;s head, only the appearance of relaxation. If you don&#039;t fix the cause then you are playing a bit of russian roulette - the temporary fixes will work until they don&#039;t, and when they don&#039;t could be the time that someone gets very seriously injured. Horses who evade by throwing their head up and running through are extremely dangerous because as a rider you  have zero control in that particular moment. He is simply trying to tell you that something is making him uncomfortable - tension and/or imbalance. If this was my own horse and situation I would work first and foremost on fixing my seat and hands at all gaits because that may be enough to alleviate any contribution that the increased emotional tension in the group has. Even as a western rider you may find that lunge lessons with a (preferably) classical dressage instructor to be worth their weight in gold for your seat and hands. I would be happy to refer you to someone in your area if you would like. :) Hope this helps!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Kayla :)</p>
<p>   From what it sounds like, your boy is experiencing being overwhelmed by the energy and chaos of the now vamped up drill team practices. I used to ride in drill team and understand completely the change that can happen instantly with your horse when moving from slow and basic practices to the more finished versions which involve higher speeds and faster responses. There are a couple things which may be at play, but I would suspect it is a combination rather than just one.</p>
<p>	<strong>Increased emontional energy from everyone </strong>- your horse, you, the other horses and their riders. In order to do maneuvers at a higher speed it requires more energy, more energy creates more tension and that tension will also increase the emotional responses from the horses and riders. If you are practicing to music as well think about the impact that excited and upbeat music has on a person&#8217;s mood &#8211; it can be hard or impossible to fall asleep or relax to heavy metal or even a good rock band.<br />
	<strong>Your own tension, and attention, has changed. </strong>Our natural response to speed and energy is to tighten our muscles more, and if you are relying on your muscles in any regard to keep your balance in the saddle your horse is going to feel this. Also, because you are focused so hard on the maneuvers in drill team your attention to other details is taken away.<br />
	<strong>Your hands and seat are not as quiet and steady at the faster speeds that they were at the slower speeds. </strong>The biggest cause of head tossing and running through are hands which are inconsistent and a seat which is out of balance for whatever reason. The hands can be inconsistent because they are giving and taking too much, bouncing around, opening and closing when unnecessary, and too high or low. Usually any problems with the hands are a result of an imbalance in the seat, and if not only from that they are always magnified by problems in the seat. Particularly with a horse who isn&#8217;t &#8220;there and done that&#8221; yet or one who is very attentive to the rider (hasn&#8217;t checked out) these issues can drive them batty to the point of being explosively evasive.<br />
   I would take a look at all of those things. Tie downs and bits are only temporary solutions, same as draw reins. Unfortunately you cannot force relaxation just through positioning the horse&#8217;s head, only the appearance of relaxation. If you don&#8217;t fix the cause then you are playing a bit of russian roulette &#8211; the temporary fixes will work until they don&#8217;t, and when they don&#8217;t could be the time that someone gets very seriously injured. Horses who evade by throwing their head up and running through are extremely dangerous because as a rider you  have zero control in that particular moment. He is simply trying to tell you that something is making him uncomfortable &#8211; tension and/or imbalance. If this was my own horse and situation I would work first and foremost on fixing my seat and hands at all gaits because that may be enough to alleviate any contribution that the increased emotional tension in the group has. Even as a western rider you may find that lunge lessons with a (preferably) classical dressage instructor to be worth their weight in gold for your seat and hands. I would be happy to refer you to someone in your area if you would like. :) Hope this helps!</p>
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		<title>By: Kayla</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-199</link>
		<dc:creator>Kayla</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:33:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-199</guid>
		<description>I have a 5 year old TB (I was told full blooded, though from build &amp; coloring, I believe he is a TB cross) that is coming out of the green stage but we still have issues. We ride western &amp; hopefully you may still ahve some ideas :) He has had issues that may or may not be relevant to this problem, but I will skip over them for now and get to the point. This past fall we started riding on a drill team. He was doing great. I am finally getting him to relax &amp; slow down. He can turn like nobodys business. Lately though we have picked up speed &amp; when we are in a group and he has to stay even or slightly behind someone he starts to go nuts. He tries grabbing his bit &amp; even if he cant get it, he throws his head as far as he can in the air &amp; just bolts. He does have a tie down to prevent it going straight up, but I dont want to tighten it to much more than it is because A)its pointless and B) he just gets even madder &amp; fights it. If we dont get his act together shortly we will be having to quit the team. When it is just us, he behaves amazingly. We have narrowed the behavior down to when he is behind someone or has to stay even with them. I have tried multiple different bits with no luck. His teeth were done a year ago. The only thing we can think of is he is wanting to race. As far as I know-he was never trained for racing. The only time period I dont know about for him is baby to about 2 1/2 years old. I am thinking of trying draw reins or a german martingale to try and get him to learn to tuck slightly &amp; relax. I dont plan on using draw reins while riding in a drill, but before/after when specifically working on issues &amp; it is a more controlled situation. Hopefully some of this makes sense.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 5 year old TB (I was told full blooded, though from build &amp; coloring, I believe he is a TB cross) that is coming out of the green stage but we still have issues. We ride western &amp; hopefully you may still ahve some ideas :) He has had issues that may or may not be relevant to this problem, but I will skip over them for now and get to the point. This past fall we started riding on a drill team. He was doing great. I am finally getting him to relax &amp; slow down. He can turn like nobodys business. Lately though we have picked up speed &amp; when we are in a group and he has to stay even or slightly behind someone he starts to go nuts. He tries grabbing his bit &amp; even if he cant get it, he throws his head as far as he can in the air &amp; just bolts. He does have a tie down to prevent it going straight up, but I dont want to tighten it to much more than it is because A)its pointless and B) he just gets even madder &amp; fights it. If we dont get his act together shortly we will be having to quit the team. When it is just us, he behaves amazingly. We have narrowed the behavior down to when he is behind someone or has to stay even with them. I have tried multiple different bits with no luck. His teeth were done a year ago. The only thing we can think of is he is wanting to race. As far as I know-he was never trained for racing. The only time period I dont know about for him is baby to about 2 1/2 years old. I am thinking of trying draw reins or a german martingale to try and get him to learn to tuck slightly &amp; relax. I dont plan on using draw reins while riding in a drill, but before/after when specifically working on issues &amp; it is a more controlled situation. Hopefully some of this makes sense.</p>
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		<title>By: Erica K.</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-198</link>
		<dc:creator>Erica K.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Mar 2010 12:36:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-198</guid>
		<description>As you&#039;ve observed, the high-headed issue stems from the connection with his mouth directly. Certainly, finding a bit which helps to make him more comfortable is essential, but the other end of the spectrum is refining the hands. Any actions which happen by the hands, whether it is that they are too unyielding/bouncing/jerky/pulling back without realizing it/too soft, will be far more upsetting to the horse if done through the bit than done to the nose via a hackamore. A martingale or draw reins will effectively put a band-aid on the problem and mask it, but most people find that they become dependent on them because it never actually solves the problem.
Your daughter&#039;s poor dressage scores due to the head is because that kind of carriage is a sign that the horse is tense, hollow through the back, not pushing from behind and there isn&#039;t a proper connection with the rider through the reins. I would recommend you seek out some Classical seat lessons for your daughter, this will help immensely not only in correcting the hands but also making all of the aids more effective and her interaction with her horse more fluid. If you need any recommendations for such you can email me directly - ericakfrei @ gmail.com
Secondly, for more comfort in his mouth have you tried a Baucher snaffle? They come in french link as well, but because of their unique design have less tendency to collapse in the horse&#039;s mouth or poke them in the roof of the mouth. In my own experience, horses I&#039;ve worked with who are more sensitive to the bit being used take very well to the Baucher. :)

Cheers,
Erica K.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As you&#8217;ve observed, the high-headed issue stems from the connection with his mouth directly. Certainly, finding a bit which helps to make him more comfortable is essential, but the other end of the spectrum is refining the hands. Any actions which happen by the hands, whether it is that they are too unyielding/bouncing/jerky/pulling back without realizing it/too soft, will be far more upsetting to the horse if done through the bit than done to the nose via a hackamore. A martingale or draw reins will effectively put a band-aid on the problem and mask it, but most people find that they become dependent on them because it never actually solves the problem.<br />
Your daughter&#8217;s poor dressage scores due to the head is because that kind of carriage is a sign that the horse is tense, hollow through the back, not pushing from behind and there isn&#8217;t a proper connection with the rider through the reins. I would recommend you seek out some Classical seat lessons for your daughter, this will help immensely not only in correcting the hands but also making all of the aids more effective and her interaction with her horse more fluid. If you need any recommendations for such you can email me directly &#8211; ericakfrei @ gmail.com<br />
Secondly, for more comfort in his mouth have you tried a Baucher snaffle? They come in french link as well, but because of their unique design have less tendency to collapse in the horse&#8217;s mouth or poke them in the roof of the mouth. In my own experience, horses I&#8217;ve worked with who are more sensitive to the bit being used take very well to the Baucher. :)</p>
<p>Cheers,<br />
Erica K.</p>
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		<title>By: Kim Allen</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-197</link>
		<dc:creator>Kim Allen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 Mar 2010 02:45:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-197</guid>
		<description>I am thinking about trying draw reins. We have a 6 yr that carries his head very high. I have used a martingale and he does great. Take it off and the head goes up and stays up. This has been going on for 1 1/2 years now. I had his teeth check and they said he had a low palet. My daughters dressage scores are bad because of this. We tried a hackamore and he did alot better but we can&#039;t use it in shows. I thought about trying the draw reins with the reg reins to see if it would make a differnce. We did change bits from a snaffle to a french snaffle with a bean in the middle. Any ideas would help. Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am thinking about trying draw reins. We have a 6 yr that carries his head very high. I have used a martingale and he does great. Take it off and the head goes up and stays up. This has been going on for 1 1/2 years now. I had his teeth check and they said he had a low palet. My daughters dressage scores are bad because of this. We tried a hackamore and he did alot better but we can&#8217;t use it in shows. I thought about trying the draw reins with the reg reins to see if it would make a differnce. We did change bits from a snaffle to a french snaffle with a bean in the middle. Any ideas would help. Thanks</p>
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		<title>By: 3rica</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-196</link>
		<dc:creator>3rica</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Apr 2009 22:09:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-196</guid>
		<description>Hi Laura,

   Thanks for the insight. :)

Erica</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Laura,</p>
<p>   Thanks for the insight. :)</p>
<p>Erica</p>
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		<title>By: Laura</title>
		<link>http://www.writingofriding.com/in-the-media/the-proper-use-of-draw-reins/#comment-195</link>
		<dc:creator>Laura</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 14:11:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.writingofriding.com/?p=224#comment-195</guid>
		<description>I don&#039;t use draw reins, but I do use Vienna reins when lunging my horse. I have also used a neck stretcher.

I started lunging him for several reasons: he is a very nervous horse and lacks confidence and I wanted him to learn to trust me; he had a lot of intermittent lameness issues and I wanted to be able to assess his way of going before getting on; he has a cough (allergies)that is very unpleasant to ride through and I wanted to have a way to get his coughing out that was less upsetting for both of us; and I wanted him to understand the concept of “we are working now.”

Once we got through all of that, my dressage trainer suggested Vienna reins as a way of teaching him to really use his back (he was originally trained [not by me!] with the “kick hard, pull harder, head up, hollow back” method – and he was ridden in a full cheek knife edge bit and a standing martingale). Given his apprehension about anything new I wasn’t sure how he would feel about the Vienna reins, but he took to them right away. Depending on how bad his cough is, I don’t lunge him for more than 15 minutes before we ride – and it’s usually not more than 10. It probably takes me more time to get him “suited-up” then it does to actually lunge him!

I find that the Vienna reins have really helped the development of his body and his brain – he now understands that it is much more pleasant to go around with his back up and neck relaxed, and he has a really nice well-developed topline.

I used the neck stretcher when I was at a strictly hunter/jumper barn – my horse seemed to like the give of it.

I have seen draw reins used very, very well and very, very poorly – they are like anything else: in the right hands they are a wonderful training tool and in the wrong hands they can cause a lot of problems. They are not a short cut or a way to “force” your horse into a certain frame – they are meant to teach your horse proper use of his body. And, of course, they mean nothing if you don’t use them correctly and you don&#039;t ride correctly – it will always come back to that.

Laura</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I don&#8217;t use draw reins, but I do use Vienna reins when lunging my horse. I have also used a neck stretcher.</p>
<p>I started lunging him for several reasons: he is a very nervous horse and lacks confidence and I wanted him to learn to trust me; he had a lot of intermittent lameness issues and I wanted to be able to assess his way of going before getting on; he has a cough (allergies)that is very unpleasant to ride through and I wanted to have a way to get his coughing out that was less upsetting for both of us; and I wanted him to understand the concept of “we are working now.”</p>
<p>Once we got through all of that, my dressage trainer suggested Vienna reins as a way of teaching him to really use his back (he was originally trained [not by me!] with the “kick hard, pull harder, head up, hollow back” method – and he was ridden in a full cheek knife edge bit and a standing martingale). Given his apprehension about anything new I wasn’t sure how he would feel about the Vienna reins, but he took to them right away. Depending on how bad his cough is, I don’t lunge him for more than 15 minutes before we ride – and it’s usually not more than 10. It probably takes me more time to get him “suited-up” then it does to actually lunge him!</p>
<p>I find that the Vienna reins have really helped the development of his body and his brain – he now understands that it is much more pleasant to go around with his back up and neck relaxed, and he has a really nice well-developed topline.</p>
<p>I used the neck stretcher when I was at a strictly hunter/jumper barn – my horse seemed to like the give of it.</p>
<p>I have seen draw reins used very, very well and very, very poorly – they are like anything else: in the right hands they are a wonderful training tool and in the wrong hands they can cause a lot of problems. They are not a short cut or a way to “force” your horse into a certain frame – they are meant to teach your horse proper use of his body. And, of course, they mean nothing if you don’t use them correctly and you don&#8217;t ride correctly – it will always come back to that.</p>
<p>Laura</p>
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